Background: The starting point for the development of new, functional products derived
from Rubus fruticosus L. is to determine the optimal cultivation conditions that produce maximal yield
of fruits containing desirable bioactive properties. Towards that goal, the effect of soil, soil/peat mixture
and light intensity on the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical potential of two cultivars (‘Thornfree’
and ‘Loch Ness') of Rubus fruticosus L. were evaluated.
Methods: The assessment was carried out employing a range of methods for evaluating fruit properties
associated with promoting good health such as total antioxidant capacity, secondary metabolites content
(vitamin C, polyphenols, flavonoids and anthocyanins) and inhibition analysis of skin-regulating
Results: ‘Thornfree' cultivar produced fruits in all light conditions, while ‘Loch Ness' did not produce
fruits in low light conditions. The results showed that in Rubus fruticosus L. fruit, the chemical composition
and bioactivity are strongly affected by both genetics factors and growing conditions. Extract
from ‘Thornfree' fruits obtained under low light and soil/peat conditions displayed superior properties
such as high antioxidant capacity, high concentrations of phenolics, flavonoids and anthocyanins and
high inhibitory potency towards the enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. This extract was used for the development
of a topical skin care cream with excellent compatibility and stability.
Conclusion: Our findings conclude that Rubus fruticosus L. cultivation may be efficiently and effectively
manipulated through conventional cultivation techniques to produce promising bioactive ingredients
with potential use in commercial cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.